Hello everyone,

Today I would like to share a tutorial on how to hack the Woodland Wanderer. I really like this pattern as it is pretty simple to put together and looks great. But I do have an issue with the buttons and the cuffs:  

- My kids much prefer a zip and I need them to be able to put their own coats on. They are 3 and 5 so buttons can be tricky. 

- Turned up minky are super cute but mine just get all dirty. So for this year's coats I added storm cuffs. I will not take all the credit for this one as the first part of the tutorial was provided by a lovely lady on the Waves and wild team facebook page. I only modified how to sew the lining to the cuff.

But before we start here's the finished coat. As you can see I also added Welt pockets with my softshell. It was doable but tricky!

Fabrics are from Enchanted Fabrics UK (Facebook group : https://www.facebook.com/groups/1440346386073292 or if you are in the EU our new facebook group : https://www.facebook.com/groups/1440346386073292)

You will need to modify the front pieces of your coat. I simply put my back piece over the front piece, lined up the side seams and cut the front to the same width as half the back.

Then you need to add the zip. You will have to do this before adding the hood (sleeves can be done before or after). 

Place your zip on your coat front right sides together. Leave at least 1 to 1.5cm gap at the bottom. This is the seam allowance to add the lining. I recommend leaving slightly more than the seam allowance to make it easier to sew around the bottom when you get to the bulky bit. Your zip should end 1cm before the top of the coat. My zip was slightly longer so I had to remove some of teeth at the top.

Sew the zip to the coat to both sides of your coat.

Add the hood, you want to tuck it under the zipper tape until it meets the zipper tape like this.

When you sew the hood on you don't want to sew through the zipper tape so lift it up to sew the hood. It should look like this.

When you sew your hood to your lining, leave the same seam allowance for your zipper. Like this :

Continue sewing the coat. When you get to adding the lining. Make sure your zip is between the layers and sew down the same line of sewing to attach the lining to the zip. 

To do this, you follow the instructions until you have sewed the lining and your main coat together. 

Then you turn the cuff up wrong sides together (I did 5cm but you can do more or less). Topstitch around the edge.

Cut a cuff that is twice the length you folded up and 80% of the width of your sleeve. Mine were 10cm by 24cm. Fold it in half on the long side and sew with a 1cm seam allowance. Then fold in half so raw edges match up. With your coat inside out, slip the cuff on to the end of your sleeve and match up the raw edges. You will have to stretch the cuff slightly for it to fit. Sew it on.

Then you need to cut the sleeve lining. I cut it off twice the length I turned up minus the seam allowance. So for a 5 cm cuff I cut off 9 cm (5+5-1)

Make sure your sleeves and lining are not twisted and sew the lining to the cuff like this. (White is my lining, black is the outside. The green sleeve cuff is inside the lining)

And then you can pull your coat the right way out. Topstitch and you're finished.

Hope you have enjoyed this tutorial. This is the first I have ever made. So feel free to share your feedback. Now that I have mastered this, I would try to make one with removable lining. Bt I am still figuring that out so maybe for next year!